“Dressing well is a form of good manners” – Tom Ford
In the end of the day, it really doesn’t matter how much you spend on your suit or where the fabric is sourced – if it doesn’t fit properly, it will still look sloppy. Nothing is worse than an ill-fitting suit, so let’s examine a few common ways you can tell if your suit isn’t actually fitting well.
Let’s break down this guide to two sections – the suit, which includes the suit jacket, and the bottom, which includes the trousers.
The Suit
You see too much of the sleeve or none at all
The right sleeve length should be just enough so that 1 inch or so of the cuff of your shirt sleeve can be seen, but not so much that you are able to see the seam where the cuff connects to the rest of the shirt.
There are wrinkles in the shoulder
A well-fitted suit jacket should be crisp and flat on the shoulder. There should be no wrinkles, folds, nor bubbles on the divot. Another sign of a bad fit is that the shoulder pads are hanging past shoulders, most likely that means the suit is too big.
The jacket bunches up
When buttoning up the jacket, the lapel should stay flat and not bunch up. If it seems as if the lapel is wrinkling, the jacket is most likely too small. If there is excess fabric on the back that scrunches up or makes rolls, is is most likely too big.
Boxed Seams
Ideally, the side seams should taper closer to the sides and not appear to be straight down like a box or hang like a tent on the body – this gives the suit a slim fit. If the seams do not taper inwards, most likely the suit jacket needs to be more fitted.
Suit Length is Past the Seat
The modern length is halfway down the seat. If the suit jacket goes to the bottom of the seat, it is considered classic length, which is a bit longer. If the suit is anything longer than past the bottom of the seat, it is most likely too long and you will be sitting on your suit.
The Bottom
Pant bottoms too long
If the pant legs are less than 2 inches above the heel, it is generally a sign that they are too long for modern standards and needs to be tailored.
The trousers legs bunch
A well-fitting pair of suit trousers should be smooth and wrinkle free, and you should be able to move freely without feeling too constricted.
Considering all factors, the fit is the most important when shopping for a suit. Some places offer in-shop tailoring or bespoke services, so be sure to take advantage of it.
