For the past week, we’ve been running a series featuring up-and-coming menswear designer Philip Sparks’ essential rules of style. Here, a few more rules to live by from the illustrious Mr. Sparks.
On suit sleeves
Often you’ll see guys wearing suits with really baggy arms, and it’s not very flattering. High armholes might feel tight to someone who’s used to wearing a really boxy suit, but it actually allows for greater freedom of movement – and a nicer shape.
On cheap hats
If you want to wear a fedora, go to one of the older millinery companies that do a really classic shape. Biltmore is a great Canadian company. Don’t get a cheap one; they always look cheap.
On double-breasted suits
Generally, with suits, it looks better to leave your bottom button undone. But double-breasted suits look best done up; otherwise, you get a lot fabric hanging in front of you. When the jacket is on the short side, the proportions work best; a long double-breasted suit can make you look really wide.
Stay away from gimmicky things. You don’t want cufflinks that are ice rinks. Go for classic piece, like a nice tiger’s eye, or a good piece of stone. I like a simple, rectangular tie bar. It’s all about being understated.