As Toronto’s charcuterie craze tells us, fat is definitely back. Here are five of the city’s finest plates.
Atelier Thuet
The Alsatian sensation Marc Thuet nods to his French and German-influenced roots with saucisson, jagerwurst and paper-thin ribbons of prosciuttini. House-made organic sheep’s milk chèvre – and legendary Thuet bread – seals the deal. 171 E. Liberty St., # 153-155, (416) 603-2777.
Cava
Chef Chris McDonald showcases house-made chorizo, hunter’s sausage, sopressatta, toscano and more. But the real showstopper is the formerly illegal jamon iberico de bellota, the rare Spanish ham made from black-footed pigs that roam the southern countryside eating nothing but acorns all day. 1560 Yonge St., (416) 979-9918.
Cowbell
This ‘nose to tail’ dining establishment uses entire animals for its menu, and charcuterie is thus key. Unconventional highlights on the ever-changing charcuterie plate include venison mortadella, pickled tongue and braised heart. Pickled beans and carrots add a final house-made touch. 1564 Queen St. W., (416) 849-1095.
The Drake
Ignore the hipsters picking at their sushi and head straight for the charcuterie plate. Christopher Sanderson, the Drake kitchen’s “charcuteria,” expertly cures a stunning variety of meats, including the standout duck terrine with cognac cherries and walnuts. 1150 Queen St. W., (416) 531-5042.
The Black Hoof
Chef Grant Van Gameren prepares nearly all of the wild offerings on site, including wild boar and blueberry, ostrich with thyme, and even horse breasola. Even things out with some creamy duck or chicken liver mousse. 928 Dundas St. W., (416) 551-8854
Lara Rabinovitch
Photo courtesy of Stuart Spivack.
